There's a time and place for steak... and that time and place is now!

February 24th, Buenos Aires Argentina

Bernie loves steak. I mean, I knew how much he loved his steak as he doesn't stop talking about the flavour, the way it should be cooked, the marinades etc forever. He'd been dying to get to Argentina so badly. At Mendoza, we had a great steak, so great that Bernie tipped 40%! In Buenos Aires, restaurant La Cabrera came highly recommended and we booked a meal that was outrageously good. So delicious that Bernie would not stop talking about it. So I researched a bit and found out that this restaurant has "happy hour" where for 1 hour every evening, they give you 50% off the entire bill. It's not expensive by British standards but definitely not cheap. I mean I like a good steak but I do love my mama's Goan steak with bancal sauce a lot as well. 

So we went there a second time and ordered the most expensive Kobe steak, which one again was very good. But tonight, we went for a third time in a week and once again, Bernie was in heaven with his rib eye. I, on the other hand, am more excited about the breadsticks and many sauces they bring. What I've learnt from all this is that Bernie loves steak more than video games, more than me (!!!), more than life itself!

I'm glad he's had his fill of steak because tomorrow evening we leave Buenos Aires for Puerto Iguazu to see the best waterfall in the world, much grander than Niagra. We decided to splash out and bought VIP suite tickets in a bus where everyone has their own tv screen and a full bed and waiter service! Honestly the pictures look better than first class in most airlines. 

I'm so sad to leave Buenos Aires, such a great city. So much amazing red wine and food and warm people. The only thing we didn't see is the Boca area and a Boca Juniors football game. Boca is a pretty dodgy neighbourhood and you are not advised to visit without a tour group at certain hours of the day - not a place I really want to visit. But the football match, funny story here. See I thought that Boca Juniors was an under 15 football team managed by Maradona where he went around the country scouting for the best talent to train them. What a hero! So I didn't really care to see some kids game. Obviously, once again I was corrected for living in my own bubble world (they are a proper team with grown ish men). Anyway, since I cannot name a single Argentine (not Argentinian) player, I won't be crying about it.

All in all, a great time was had in Buenos Aires. I'm very jealous of the many foreign exchange students and English teachers we've met who now call this city home. I'm definitely going to visit again soon.

Buenos Aires

February 21st - 23rd, Buenos Aires Argentina

Living it, loving it. 

Cool grafitti, walking around the city

A great Sunday afternoon spent at a huuuuge park near BA's business district

Buenos Aires jetty

La Cabrera.... Again! Amazing Kobe Sirloin steak

Life in Palermo

February 19th-21st, Buenos Aires Argentina

We moved from downtown Buenos Aires to Palermo. The city center is like any center with its 12 lane highways and big buildings, we could've been in Madrid or Lisbon or even in an American city. When we moved to Palermo Soho however, we we'd so amazed! This barrio is amazing with it's cobbled roads and little cafés and quaint shops. We checked into Gorriti B&B and it's really amazing and perfectly located next to everything.

First thing we had to do was go to La Cabrera, a highly recommended steak restaurant. Infact I had to book a table days in advance and even then only got a lunch spot on a weekday. What can I say, it was exactly as good as every one described, only better! I think that steak was heaven for Bernie. We are hoping to go back again if we can get a table.

That night we decided to go to a 'secret bar' I'd found called 878. On the walk there, we passed by a restaurant called Sarkis (Armenian food) just as the clock struck 8pm and they were opening their shutters. And a second later, there was a swarm of people trying to get in, I kid you not, at least 50-60 people standing outside patiently waiting for this place to open! Anyway we continued on and actually had to walk up to a random unmarked door and ring the bell to enter a very cool old school speakeasy. We were there pretty early and had a couple of drinks before heading to Plaza Serrano which is a roundabout with a lot of bars and restaurants. Fun night in lovely Palermo. 

Yesterday we decided to finally visit La Recoletta Cemetery, which is the second most expensive cemetery in the world (first is in Paris). We walked there and Bernie got a haircut on the way, amusing experience since we can't understand Argentine Spanish! The pronunciation is extremely different and for us novices, it completely changes the word and meaning. The cemetery was quite an experience, like walking around a town even, the mausoleums are huge and intricate with big statues and you can actually look in and see the coffins. 

In the evening we decided to eat Thai food at Koh Lenta, not expecting too much. But what a shock, it was one of the best Thai meals I've had, maybe because I was missing the variety so much! Anyway it was a great meal with some lovely wine, I'd highly recommend this restaurant. 

Mostly we are quite lazy, we walk around a lot though but not doing too much. It's great to just chill and enjoy the vibe of Palermo and Buenos Aires.

Chilling in the city

February 18th, Buenos Aires Argentina

This morning we didn't wake up for breakfast, didn't wake up for the cleaning lady, didn't wake up with 3  alarms... finally only did wake up when we realized we had no money left and had to make an Azimo trip. Of course it was close to 1 pm when we left, so I'll spare you all the drama of how we couldnt find the pick up point, how hot it was, how hungry we were, waiting for the shop to open from their lunch break - read older post "Argentina and the Blue Dollar".

After collecting the cash, we went to Chino Central; oh how I love Chinese food no matter how different it tastes world over. Back at the hostel we continued to do nothing, its actually shameful that we've been here 4 days now and still haven't been to La Recoleta Cemetery to see Eva Peron's grave. Especially considering how much I've loved Evita and Madonna's 'Don't Cry For Me Argentina'. Definitely in the next few days.

We walked around later in the evening to different barrios or neighborhoods. The good thing is that the both of us like walking so we wander aimlessly around the city and it's really the best.

There is one incredibly weird thing that we've noticed about the people here (much to Bernie's annoyance). This has happened twice or more already - when walking down a normal street, a random nicely dressed person, sometimes with a kid even, asks us something. We don't understand and assume they are asking for a lighter maybe. But no. They repeat themselves and what they are asking for is a sip of our drinks! Of our water or Coke or Sprite and we've been so surprised by this request that we give it to them. It's really very strange, I wonder if this is normal in BA to have non beggar beggars? We've decided that we're not going to part with our drinks anymore from tomorrow!

Tomorrow we will bid adieu to party hostel Milhouse and move to Gorriti in Palermo. It's a hip posh barrio that has lots of lovely boutiques and cafes and bars. We need a few days of luxury and relaxation before our 18 hour bus to Iguazu followed by crazy Brazil! Also we have our lunch reservation set up days ago at La Cabrera for the best steak in Argentina, we'll definitely wake up on time tomorrow.

Portrait of Eva on the Ministry of Health building on 9th of July street

Bernie's Espanol

February 17th, Buenos Aires Argentina

We said goodbye to our hostel on Belgrano street and the lovely owner and his girlfriend (who were so nice - he drove Bernie to the supermarket and even drove us to a bar and back home). We've moved into a huge party hostel called Milhouse Hipo, it's big and feels like a hotel except for the many youngsters sitting at the bar at 1 pm and we have wristbands! We checked in and saw our Indian friend at the bar with his bags ready to leave South America. Once he saw us, he insisted we have goodbye 'bloodshots' with him and obviously this went on for an hour and a half! Until he ran out of taxi money and everyone at the bar was yelling for him to leave or he'd miss his flight. And the bartender told us she would not serve us any more shots! It's always sad to say goodbye, even if you've not known each other long; but I think travelers form some sort of camaraderie that can't be explained.

After that distraction, we continued on our lunch mission to find a Korean restaurant. I will say that at this point, I am so starved for anything that's not pure meat and has some spices! This continent is probably the only one devoid of Indians, but I think we should come here in droves bringing the gift of spice and curry with us! In Mendoza we met a lovely girl on holiday from Buenos Aires who has never eaten Indian food. I was flabbergasted!

Anyway, we're on our mission except by now its 4 pm and I'm pretty sure the kitchen is shut but Bernie can't stop talking about how much he wants to eat bibimbap and I love bibimbap so we walk in the hot sun for about 30 minutes without the address or map. Bernie keeps asking people on the street for this Korean restaurant but they cannot understand what he's saying.

Finally I manage to steal some wifi and we look up the restaurant and street name. As we continue on, Bernie asks a newspaper vendor: "donde esta calle Junin?" -Where is road Junin - and the guy says "Que?" - What? So Bernie yells louder and slower and the guy's like "no entiendo" - I don't understand. But our Bernie is persistent, "Cayee Whooonin" he shouts pronouncing the words carefully. Still the guy can't understand. And then I repeat, calle Junin and the guy says, "ahhh calle Junin" and points us in the direction. It was hilarious because it's now an ongoing joke that no matter what Bernie says, no matter how perfect the grammer and pronunciation, they don't understand. And then I say the exact same thing and not only do they understand immediately, but they praise my good Spanish! I tried to trick Bernie into speaking so I could secretly record him for the blog but he wouldn't fall for it.

Anyway, we finally did find the restaurant but it was obviously shut by then so we had to eat at Burger King! It would not be so bad except that we are both so obsessed with Tripadvisor and know the best restaurants, but never end up there!

Later in the evening we decided to go for a highly recommended drum show and thought we'd try the metro. It's actually very good and easy to work out but unfortunately we reached late so we walked around Plaza Italia and saw the super posh apartment buildings in Recoletta. We walked a lot today. Back at the hostel, a huge party had begun, it was so big and happening that people off of the street were begging to get in. Funnily enough, for all the times we've looked for a good party, tonight neither of us were in the mood. So we went out for a quick midnight steak, as one does when they are in Buenos Aires and it's time to hit the sack.

It's a small world after all

February 16th, Buenos Aires Argentina

Today we decided to head down to the San Telmo market which everyone highly recommended. On the way there, we decided to stop at a roadside restaurant to have a quick bite... we meet the Indian guy from Sucre (the one with all the bad luck). It's so strange that in these huge countries we still manage to run into people we know! So we sat around and managed to drink many bottles of wine while discussing our travels as his 7 months of traveling is up and he leaves today.

Then we finally went to the market, 4 hours later than planned, and it was pretty cool. The stall sold all sorts of artisan crafts, felt a bit like a flea market. I bought some sunglasses and a very funky ring. Then we watched a bunch of street performers and singers, it's always fun to watch the drunk dancers!

Finally we said bye to our friend and went to an Irish pub called Gibralter where they had chicken tikka masala on the menu so we just had to order it. What it was was rice with some kind of bbq chicken placed on top of the rice, and a bit of packet curry sauce. Not at all close, but they tried and got the colour right atleast!

The day pretty much whizzed by with so much wine, I was ready for bed by 12 am. Bernie continued on with some peeps at the hostel but it looks like it was a quiet night. Today we are moving hostels to Milhouse which is apparently a "party hostel" so I wonder how our next 2 days will go! We are also planning to head over to Uruguay which is only 2 hours away from BA, maybe visit a new country for a day. And finally in a few days we'll be off to Iguacu falls on the Argentina side before crossing over to Brazil.

Hola Buenos Aires

February 13th-15th, Mendoza and Buenos Aires, Argentina

Two rainy chilled out days in Mendoza. I've been reading a lot which makes me happy, but also makes me super unsocial. Bernie hung out with a Chilean Police Inspector at the hostel, here with his family. He's such a nice guy, loves chatting but in super quick Spanish. We've regressed to him excitedly saying 'One Direction' and 'Tom Jones' to me every time we cross each other! At 12 am on the 14th, Bernie surprised me with ice cream and chocolates and wine; I didn't even remember that it was Valentines Day!

Last night, the 14th, we got on a 12 hour bus and today we're in Buenos Aires!!! We haven't left the hotel all day, pretty tired but we have a lot of time (approx 10 days) in BA because we decided to skip traveling to the South of Argentina. Gotta pick your travels in these big countries, don't want to be hopping on and off buses every night. 

Tonight, Chis who owns this hostel cooked a dinner of steak and empanadas for a group of 10 of us. The empanadas were amazing, the steak would've been better if the Argentinians didn't eat theirs well done. In true Argentinian style, dinner was served at 11:30 pm and now it's 2:30 am and we're waiting for everyone to get ready so we can leave to party! 

Vino y asado

February 12th, Mendoza Argentina

After 2 lazy-ish days, we finally decided to do a wine tour. The weather here is hot hot hot (38 degrees Celcius) so it´s quite hard to do anyhing but lounge about and eat meat and drink wine. This afternoon, we went to 2 vineyards and an olive oil factory. It was really interesting because I don´t know half as much about wine, even though I drink tons!

We went to Lujan de Cuyo district which is one of the oldest wine producing areas in Argentina and produces 60% of all Argentinian wines. On the drive there, we passed big signs saying "Tierra Malbec" which got us really excited. For some people, visiting churches or museums or Disneyland gets them excited. For us, visiting the Malbec vineyards was a religious experience in itself! The first vineyard is almost 200 years old called "Dante Robino". Our English speaking guide explained the entire wine making process, this vineyard specialises in Malbec and Sparkling Wines. We even got to taste some grapes of the vines, which are protected by a metal covering from hail storms.

The most important things I learnt were that first - Prosecco, Cava, sparkling wines of any names are actually all the same as Champaigne (which is trademarked). I always thought they were different drinks! The second thing is that if you are buying a young wine (usually you can determine this by price and brand) do not go for older years thinking it will be better; instead always buy a wine in the year closest to the one you are in. Once you pour red wine into a glass, if it has brownish tints, it is probably not good to drink. And finally, if you buy white wine, when you pour it into a glass it should be light yellow with white tints. If it is dark yellow with brownish tints, throw the wine away.

We then went to the tasting room and had 2 reds and a white sparkling wine. Wine tasting is actually the only sophisticated way you can down glasses of wine, no judgement! They bring you the new glasses so quick that you have no choice, and I ain´t going to waste any wine in the spit bucket! We liked the wines but not enough to buy bottles and lug them around the rest of Argentina, Brazil and Colombia in our backpacks.

The second vinyard we visited was a new vinyard opened in 2006 and family run. This looked pretty new and most of the vines would only be ready 2-3 years from now. Once again, did a tour and then wine tasting of 3 different wines. This vinyard specialises in ´Carmenere´ wines and actually is in the top 5 Carmeneres in the world. We liked one of them enough to buy, though I´m sure we´ll have drunk it before even leaving Mendoza.

Finally on to the olive oil factory. We weren´t too interested at first but this was actually quite cool. At the end they had a lot of bread with different toppings to try out the different olive oils. As much as I like wine, I love bread more so this was the highpoint for me :)

Finally back at the hostel, we decided to go for some asado (bbq) highly recommended by an Irish couple we met earlier in the day and ordered the meat sharing platter. Though warned by our waitress that it was huge, we still went for it and it was the best meat I´ve eaten so far... ever. Bernie got the meat sweats and had to stop even though we had about half remaining but got it packed for breakfast tomorrow! So far Argentina is everything we´d hoped for -- great meat and wine!